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Craig_Bobbins
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Reged: 26/08/2008
Posts: 2
Chokes - help
      #3666 - 26/08/2008 14:50

All i have ever done is sporting clays which i enjoy but now later this week i have found myself in a competition for trap and skeet. I have a lanber sporter multichoke which i have only ever used chokes 3 and 4 for sporting as this is what i was told but i assume i need to change these for skeet and trap ? my chokes are 1 2 3 & 4 but all i read on the internet is full, improved cylinder skeet etc - how do these correlate to my 1-4 system and more to the point what shoudl i use for trap and skeet ? I am thinking to stay with 3 & 4 for trap and switch to 1&2 for skeet but am unsure

any help much appreciated

Thanks

Craig


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Happy Birthday ROBERT6500
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Reged: 21/09/2007
Posts: 143
Loc: SOMERSET
Re: Chokes - help [Re: Craig_Bobbins]
      #3667 - 26/08/2008 19:35

Have you got little notches in the end of the chokes ? if so how many on each tube ?

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Craig_Bobbins
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Reged: 26/08/2008
Posts: 2
Re: Chokes - help [Re: ROBERT6500]
      #3668 - 26/08/2008 19:43

yes each choke has either I II III or IIII but i dont understand which of these is full improved cylinder etc - which should i use for skeet etc

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jwayne
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Reged: 04/10/2007
Posts: 13
Re: Chokes - help [Re: Craig_Bobbins]
      #3672 - 27/08/2008 12:44

changing chokes for different situations is really personal preferance and a mental thing.
i shot sporting last week with very open chokes, ie 3 & 4 and i was hitting verly long range targets.40+ yards
it really is a mental thing, if we see a target far away or going at some speed, we automatically think that we need tight chokes to get the distance. it only takes 1bb to break a clay and if you shoot well with open chokes, keep them open the bigger the pattern the greater the chance of hitting the clay, because you've effectively got the same amount of shot but in a much larger area.
people assume tight chokes mean more pellets, tight chokes mean more impact at larger distances.
any one going to the midland?


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Tal_IL
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Reged: 21/03/2008
Posts: 3
Loc: Central Illinois, USA
Re: Chokes - help [Re: Craig_Bobbins]
      #3673 - 27/08/2008 17:48

I am not familiar with Lanber specifically. But, generally one notch is full choke and more notches indicate more open choke.

They would commonly go as follows:
I = Full
II = ImpMod
III = Mod
IIII = ImpCyl
IIIII = Cyl or Skeet

--------------------
(W)hen some of my friends have asked me anxiously about their boys,
whether they should let them hunt, I have answered, yes.....-- make them hunters, ....
There is a period in the history of the individual, as of the race, when the hunters are the "best men," .... -Henry David Thoreau


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Happy Birthday ROBERT6500
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Reged: 21/09/2007
Posts: 143
Loc: SOMERSET
Re: Chokes - help [Re: Craig_Bobbins]
      #3674 - 27/08/2008 19:42

With the chokes you have, for maximum results use them as follows.
Skeet = IIIII+IIII Open chokes for close clays.
Trap = II+III OR (I) but (I) is very tight, like shooting a rifle almost.
Using the tightest choke (I or II) in the top barrel is usual.
Use the most open choke (III) as the first shot as it can kill an edge on clay easy at 40yds but if you miss, the second barrel choke (II)or (I) is more than enough to take out the clay further out at 60yds.


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