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Thread: Choke Markings

  1. #1
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    Choke Markings

    Hello again guys. Would like advice on the interpretation of markings on the chokes on my recent purchase, a Miroku MK70 sporting gun. There are four and details are as follows

    1) CARLSON
    WIN/MOSS
    MOD/.710

    2)MP CYL - LEAD
    MOD - STEEL
    BROWNING

    3) FULL
    BROWNING

    4) CARLSON
    WIN/MOSS
    CYL/.730

    No 3 is obviously full choke and for trap

    merv

  2. #2
    Super Moderator BerettaSV10's Avatar
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    In general chokes follow the pattern below, some chokes are colour coded as well. The stars are the same as the notches on the top of the choke. Some makes do have sheet and cyl chokes marked slightly different, which I thing that the skeet and cyl marking are reversed to whats show below.
    .
    The list also shows the inbetween choke sizes.
    .
    One of the choke threads is on this link http://forums.shootinguk.co.uk/showt...ighlight=choke
    .
    .
    - Xtra Full - No Color
    .
    F = Full * White coloured band
    .
    Light Full Grey coloured band
    .
    3/4 = Improved Modified ** Black coloured band
    .
    1/2 = Modified *** Green colered band
    .
    Light Modified Orange coloured band
    .
    1/4 = Improved Cylinder **** Yellow coloured band
    .
    SK = Skeet no *'s Red (USA - Purple) coloured band
    .
    CL = Cylinder ***** Blue coloured band
    .
    .
    A lot of people will recommend 1/4 (4 notches) in the bottom barrel and 1/2 (3 notches) in the top barrel for sporting clays.
    .
    When I started shooting I used Cylinder (5 notches) in the bottom barrel and 1/4 (4 notches) in the top, Now I use 1/4 and 1/2.
    .
    On the skeet at the moment I am using a s/a which I use cyl as don't have a skeet choke.
    Can't beat having a day out shooting clays.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Beretta will have a look at them again later. Can you make any sense out of the markings I have given in my thread? merv

  4. #4
    Super Moderator BerettaSV10's Avatar
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    Ops forgot that bit I think I am right, no doubt some one will correct me if wrong
    .
    .

    F = Full * White coloured band = your No, 3) FULL BROWNING
    .
    .
    1/2 = Modified *** Green colered band = your No, 1) CARLSON WIN/MOSS MOD
    .
    .
    1/4 = Improved Cylinder **** Yellow coloured band = your No, 2) IMP CYL - LEAD (for lead shot, ) MOD - STEEL BROWNING also has steel marking which is eqiv to 1/2 when using steel shot.
    .
    .
    CL = Cylinder ***** Blue coloured band = your No, 4) CARLSON WIN/MOSS CYL/.730
    .
    Full choke is not just for trap shooting, it is used on distant targets on sporting or game etc, my self the only time full has been out of its container was to oil it for storage not yet brave enough to try it (miss too many as it is).
    Can't beat having a day out shooting clays.

  5. #5
    Young Shot
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    Merv,
    The reason people have multi choke guns is so they can give themselves the best possible chance of hitting the clay – resulting in the best possible score. It does seem a shame that advice is given to put and choke in and leave it alone. If you were going to do that you might as well have bought a fixed choke gun and saved yourself a few hundred quid!!
    On the other hand some people will change their chokes on every stand – whether it needs it or not. Certainly and choke will be adequate for most occasions.
    If you have two close up targets it is daft to leave choke in – conversely if you have two distant going away targets it is daft to leave choke in.
    I do accept that very often you will be presented with a closer and a more distant target where that combination is ideal – but not for everything.
    If you are unsure about what affect chokes have it is worth getting hold of some large pieces of card, if you can’t access a pattern plate, and spent hour experimenting – it will be well worth it. To keep it simple use 28g - 7 shot cartridges.
    Put in your most open choke and start at 20 yards.
    Keep moving back 5 yards at a time.
    You need to hit the clay with 3 – 4 pellets to be pretty sure of a break. Hold a clay up to the pattern to see how far back you get before the pattern is too thin to give you this many hits. Obviously you will be able to get back further with a face on clay rather than the edge on target.
    Make notes of the distances and chokes which give you the furthest distance for face and edge targets – both standard and midi.
    Once the pattern is not sufficiently dense change to choke and go back another 5 yards and as soon as this pattern is too degraded change to then , and eventually full choke.
    This bit of fun will give you a great insight into what patterns your gun throws and what you can expect from it. You will only need to do it once and you will refer to the results, probably from memory, for the rest of your shooting career.
    It will also remove the doubt regarding pattern and give you confidence.
    You may wish to do a shortened version if you change cartridges – especially if you go to plastic from fibre wad.
    It will also show you if your gun is shooting to point of aim.
    Always wear safety glasses and do not shoot at a metal plate with non toxic shot. Steel shot is particularly prone to ricochet.
    At the ground over the last couple of weeks I have been putting on a very long distant walkback. It got quite silly. Last week two of my instructors beat me – I only managed 90 yards and they both managed 100 yards. I got my revenge this week – they could still only manage 100 yards but I broke mine at 110 yards. We did pattern the guns at this distance with full choke. Well there were holes a foot across – some of the No 5 shot just bounced off the cardboard and some stuck in it – a few did go through. We think the centre of the pattern was about 4 feet below the point of aim. The whole thing was ridiculous – but I got back further than them - which is the important thing!!! There was a serious point to this and most of the other shooters were able to break clays out to 70yards with standard clay cartridges. Clays look very small at 70 yards!!
    John
    [url="http://www.swsg.co.uk"]www.swsg.co.uk[/url]



  6. #6
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    Thanks Beretta that has cleared everything up nicely. My gun has 1/4 choke in the bottom and 1/2 in the top and I should probably keep it this way while trying to crack this hobby at the practice ground. Thats great the way you have given me all the different marking options. The ones I have got, two have notches and two don't. merv

  7. #7
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    Thanks John thats a pretty comprehensive treatise you have sent me. Will inwardly digest in due course along with your paper. merv

  8. #8
    Super Moderator BerettaSV10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by merv View Post
    Thanks Beretta that has cleared everything up nicely. My gun has 1/4 choke in the bottom and 1/2 in the top and I should probably keep it this way while trying to crack this hobby at the practice ground. Thats great the way you have given me all the different marking options. The ones I have got, two have notches and two don't. merv
    The choke markings shown are a general guide, I thing there are some makes that might not have notches in them, some one more experienced with choke markings may be able to advise more on this.
    .
    The pdf book that John sent you is a very good guide, unfortunately I lost the copy John sent me when the PC crashed some time ago and forgot who sent it me..
    Can't beat having a day out shooting clays.

  9. #9
    Young Shot
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    sned me your e-m on a Pm and i will forward it.
    John
    [url="http://www.swsg.co.uk"]www.swsg.co.uk[/url]



  10. #10
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    Yes 2 of mine don't have any notches, one has 1 notch and 1 has 4 notches but what you have given me has enabled me to know what is what. thanks

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